When you put in 8 to 12 hours a day of moving time on the bike there is lots of time to think, However it turns out that I don't think about much more than the next mile and half. Since I finished my 38 day adventure a few weeks ago, I have had a chance to reflect on why I was able to finish when half the folks who started with me in Banff did not. All of us showed up on the start line intending to finish and having put a lot of time, effort and money into getting there. What stands out for me is that I was truly able to live in the moment, seeing only my front wheel turning and a fragment of song from the 70's playing on repeat in my head. I did not think about how far I had to go or what the next day might bring or much of anything except the moment I was in and whether the hill I was climbing would give me a good long downhill roll. Of course, I thought about the next food and water but beyond that there was a sense of freedom that took me back to the best days of climbing mountains in my youth or wandering the hills as a chief instructor for Outward Bound. Yesterday was already gone and the future hadn't happened yet, so there was only the moment I was in. If I had started to think about the future or about the inherent absurdity of the endeavor, I think I would have quit.
Smoked oysters and fritos- a high quality lunch at the top of Paloverde Mesa
I rode out of Horca, the last town in Colorado after waiting at the local cafe for a second breakfast. The meal was worth the wait and I pedaled over Mangas Pass to the turn into New Mexico. Immediately the road got rougher, the hills were steeper and by early afternoon I took shelter from the afternoon storm under a tree until the rain ended. Welcome to New Mexico. A few miles further and I encountered some New Mexico mud and turned off the road to a 18 mile section of singletrack that was added to the route this year. It's a beautiful track with stunning views that would be really fun to ride with a full suspension mountain bike and a daypack. With a fully loaded touring bike I did a lot of walking as I pushed on into the evening.
After a night out on the trail and more hike a bike I finished the remaining single track section to Hopewell Lake. The roads got gradually easier and more downhill and I was able to roll into Abiqui in the early evening in time for milkshakes and smoothies. I spent the evening and the next day resting along the river at a lovely, funky place to stay along with my four friends from New Zealand.
Only in New Mexico
From Abiqui there is a 26 mile, 5000 foot climb right out of town to Polvadera Mesa. My pre-dawn start put me on top by noon and a long rolling afternoon with a bear sighting took me to the town of Cuba, where once again I got the last available hotel room.
Each day began in the dark as I started at 4 am and rode into a beautiful New Mexico sunrise. By late morning the clouds would move in and I might have wind, rain or some combination for the rest of the days ride. From Cuba a 120 mile ride mostly on pavement put me in the town of Grants, a town that combines aging Route 66 motels with a lots of empty buildings for a real post apocaplyse vibe. I got a great breakfast before leaving the pavement behind as I headed to Pie Town.
I made it to Pie Town in time to get some pie before the cafe closed and then had the classic Toaster House hostel to myself for the night- 8 beds to choose from and no one around except a stray cat that tried to steal food off the bike. I did some laundry and made popcorn for dinner.
Leaving Pie Town there is a 150 mile stretch until the next store at Lake Roberts. With my bags stuffed with french fries and burritos I headed out, passing the Kiwis once again in the dark as they were camped up the road. They passed me again as we made our way to the water source at Beaverhead Workstation. I encountered a serious headwind and driving rain before making it to camp thoroughly soaked and mildly hypothermic.
From Beaverhead a long and arduous day of climbing and rain through the Gila ended with an evening roll down the pavement into Silver City. Outside of town a passing cyclist shouted "Congratulations" as I rolled by at 25 miles an hour and suddenly my eyes were full of tears. The hard riding was over and I knew that I was going to make it. A night in Silver City and then a long day to the border was all that was left of the grand Tour Divide adventure. My late last night in Hachita, complete with ice cream, beer and a hose shower under the stars was a great way to end up.
It's difficult to have a life changing experience when you are turning 70. I'm not sure if this will be one or if I can indeed be more present and focused on the moment when I am not riding my bike all the time. My first few days after the ride felt like a case of the flu and it has taken some time to feel more motivated and recover. But maybe I'm a bit more patient and relaxed and less worried about tomorrow...at least for a while till I come up with another bike adventure. I started this trip with the question of what my 70 year old mind and body could do and surprised myself with what I could do every day as the miles rolled by.
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